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Introduction

The word Bandhani or Bandhini or Bandhej (Hindi: बांधानी) comes from Sanskrit word Bandha or Bandhana. It means to tie or to bind. It uses to create beautiful circular patterns on the fabrics. This Bandhini or Bandhej embroidery is used frequently in the textile design industry. The textile is decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings. 

It is an ancient art. The earliest references are found from 4000 B.C. In the Buddhist era, we can trace this art. We can also find this art in the 6th century in the Ajanta cave. Even in the time of Alexander, we can see it. 

SungudiBandhej, Piliya, Mothra, Ekdali, Shikari, Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori, Chandrokhani, and Chungidi are the variation of this word. 

Bandhini or Bandhej Embroidery work in India was started by the Khatri community of Gujarat. Nowadays, most of the sarees are weaved in Rajasthan, Gujrat, Sindh, and Punjab region. This weaving art is performed by skilled and experienced weavers. Experienced families are also traditionally involved in this craft. 

Tye-dye process

At first, the fabrics are tied in different knots very tightly. Then it is left to be dyed for some time with different colors. At the time of dye, the knots do not catch the color. When the process is ended, it is dried in the open air. Bandhni can be presented in different colors, designs, and patterns. But it depends on the region of the origin. Black, red, yellow, green, and blue is often used in this saree. Dots, waves, strips are used as a pattern in this saree. 

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There are mainly three types of Bandhni sarees:

Borjaal

“Jaal” means “Web”. It is also made in georgettes. It is commonly used for wedding purposes. It has an interplay of colors and dots. 

Jhankaar Bandhni

It is very colorful and has fi e patterns. You will not find any light-colored shade here.

Color Discharge Bandhni

In this design, lighter colors are visible on the darker colors. It is a reverse process of typical bandhani design. 

The sarees I draped were bought directly from Rajasthan. When I received the sarees first time, I saw the Bandh or the tye in the saree. I was delighted. Sarees are really fine, soft, comfortable and colourful. It is really the work of art.

 

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